Drop ‘yer Drawers (lingerie)

A drawing of cancan dancers among the crowd at the MOULIN ROUGE music-hall in Paris in the late XIXth century. Was the Gentleman peering through an opening in the drawers?

Drawers, or Pantalettes,  are a pant-like garment worn during the 19th century for modesty and warmth. They could be one-piece or two separate garments, one for each leg, attached at the waist with buttons or laces. The crotch was left open for hygiene reasons. They were most often of white linen fabric and could be decorated with tucks, lace, cutwork or broderie anglaise.


The split in the crotch of the drawers is convenient for going to the bathroom when you cannot take the drawers down under the heavy layers of skirt or a hoop. But like wearing Spanx tights or shapers — using the opening….it seems…messy.

Did the split in drawers make the Moulin Rouge shows more risqué than dievca ever knew? That high kick could be unintentionally revealing.

BTW – Spanx makes a modern version of drawers:

And, again, dievca has always wondered how you go to the bathroom without soaking the Spanx. In asking the question, she ran into a solution offered by the DailyMail.

Yes, for those of you who are very precise – there is a second definition of “Drawers” as in the furniture sense, Lingerie Drawers:

A semainier is a chest of drawers, usually tall and thin, intended for storing linen and lingerie. … Originating in 18th-century France, semainier has come to mean any seven-drawer chest these days but the term is sometimes erroneously applied to tall thin lingerie chests with only six drawers.


It suits your body: Bodysuits (lingerie)

David Vasiljevic shoots Kasia Struss for the September 2010 issue of Numéro Tokyo.

David Vasiljevic shoots Kasia Struss for the September 2010 issue of Numéro Tokyo.

BODYSUIT, a leotard-like (see Leotard definition below) undergarment, usually skintight or formfitting. Can be another form of shapewear.

A bodysuit  is a one-piece form-fitting garment that covers the torso and the crotch. The style of a basic bodysuit is similar to a one-piece swimsuit and a leotard, though the materials may vary. A bodysuit, unlike a swimsuit or leotard, has snaps, hooks or velcro at the crotch.

teal-crushed-velvet-bodysuit-1990sA bodysuit may have sleeves and varying shoulder strap and collar styles. Bodysuits can be made from a number of fabrics; cotton, lace, nylon, etc. In general, textile bodysuits include expandable fiber such as spandex for a better fit to the shape of the body.

A bodysuit is normally worn with trousers or a skirt. The top, torso part may act as a top for the smooth line it gives or because it cannot become untucked from trousers or skirt. They may also be worn generally by women as underwear, activewear, or foundation garments. Unlike a leotard, a bodysuit is not usually considered a form of athletic wear.  The purpose of the opening at the crotch is entry into the piece and for a visit to the toilet.

NOTE:
There are also bodyshirts, loose-fitting garments that cover the torso, with sleeves in short to long lengths and crotch snaps. The difference is that they look like a shirt on the top part of the garment, and may have a different stretch fabric in the waist to the crotch area to make them fit better. (instead of using a “fight strap”? 😁)

HISTORY:
The bodysuit was a progression from the leotard. It was presented in the United States after 1950 by fashion designer Claire McCardell. The first recognized bodysuit was worn by Bettie Page in the 1950s, and was a trademark attire of the Playboy Bunnies from the 1960s, as well as of Wonder Woman in the animated series Super Friends plus, Lynda Carter, in the television series.

Azzedine Alaia and Donna Karan helped make the bodysuit a fashion item for both men and women in the 1980s. After a slowdown, it was resurrected as shaping underwear or lingerie, and in the 2010s it reappeared as a blouse bodysuit and classic turtleneck bodysuit – moving into full usage TODAY!

Check out the current Lingerie / Innerwear as Outerwear options from
Fleur du Mal:

 

LEOTARD:
A leotard is a unisex skin-tight one-piece garment that covers the torso but leaves the legs exposed. The garment was first made famous by the French acrobatic performer Jules Léotard (1838–1870). There are sleeveless, short-sleeved and long-sleeved leotards.
Leotards are worn by acrobats, gymnasts, dancers, figure skaters, athletes, actors, and circus performers both as practice garments and performance costumes. They are often worn together with ballet skirts on top and tights or sometimes bike shorts as underwear. As a casual garment, a leotard can be worn with a belt; it can also be worn under overalls or short skirts.
Leotards are entered through the neck (in contrast to bodysuits which have snaps at the crotch, allowing the garment to be pulled on over the head). Scoop-necked leotards have wide neck openings and are held in place by the elasticity of the garment. Others are crew necked or polo necked and close at the back of the neck with a zipper or snaps.

Rollerskating Leotards

Rollerskating in Leotards


négligée (lingerie)

négligée is a light dressing gown. It is usually floor length, though it can be knee length as well.

The negligee or négligée, from the French: négligé, literally meaning “neglected”, known in French as déshabillé, is a form of see-through clothing for women consisting of a sheer usually long dressing gown. It is a form of nightgown intended for wear at night and in the bedroom. It was introduced in France in the 18th century, where it mimicked the heavy head-to-toe style of women’s day dresses of the time.

By the 1920s, the negligee began to resemble women’s satin single-layer evening dress of the period. The term “negligee” was used on a Royal Doulton run of ceramic figurines in 1927, showing women wearing what appears to be a one-piece knee-length silk or rayon slip, trimmed with lace.

 

Although the evening-dresses style of nightwear made moves towards the modern negligee style—translucent bodices, lace trimming, bows, exemplified in 1941 by a photo of Rita Hayworth in Life Magazine—it was only after World War II that nightwear changed from being primarily utilitarian to being primarily sensual or even erotic; the negligee emerged strongly as a form of lingerie.

Modern negligees are often much looser and made of sheer and diaphanous fabrics and trimmed with lace or other fine material, and bows. Multiple layers of fabric are often used. The modern negligee thus perhaps owes more to women’s fine bedjackets or bed-capes, and up-market slips than to the nightgown. It spread to a mass market, benefitting from the introduction of cheap synthetic fabrics such as nylon and its finer successors (silk). From the 1940s to the 1970s, the trend was for negligees to become shorter in length (e.g. the babydoll of the 1970s). Negligees made from the 1940s to the 1970s are now collectible vintage items.

dievca usually thinks of a négligée as a very light see-thru robe (dressing gown), but it looks like the definition can include what dievca defines as “night gowns”. In photos, Rita Hayworth had robes and gown style options.

BTW -who wouldn’t want her lingerie collection. Amazing!

Wikipedia, Merriam-Webster


BodystockingS (lingerie)

A Bodystocking, is a unitard (one-piece) which is worn over the torso and legs. The tops can have sleeves or no sleeves.  The fabric tends to be a stretchy  stocking-like material (opaque, sheer, fishnet, mesh, lace, cut-outs, etc.) As lingerie, they often have openings between the legs and they are sometimes used by women to appear slimmer.


For the brave and well-built (G-String lingerie)

The G-string thong is a type of underwear bottoms, characterized by a narrow piece of cloth (string) that passes between the buttocks and is attached to a band around the hips via a triangle of fabric at the top. The front is covered in a variety of fabric shapes.

A G-string may be worn as a swimsuit bottom, or as underwear by both men and women.

Photo by Jocelen Janon of Leda Petit : Pasties and a G-string

Are you a G-String acolyte?
Does your Sir/Madame/Partner prefer to see your A** in its glory?


The Size of Their Fruit

“Well, that’s why you’re having so much trouble. The fruit method is what we use when we have men who don’t know their girlfriend’s bra size. It’s simple. You ask them to compare their girlfriend’s boobs to either a lemon, an apple, an orange or a grapefruit, and from that, you can get a rough estimate of their bra size.”

“You’re kidding, right?” I said in disbelief.

“No,” she said, shaking her head. “A lemon is a 34A, an apple is a 34B, an orange is a 34C and a grapefruit is a 36C/34D.”

From Christopher Pilny, click here

Simone Perele Eden Lingerie in Orange

According to Christopher, dievca is an orange and she bought a little lingerie in Europe to celebrate that fact.
What size are you?
and what would your Sir or Madam think with a peep of that color?

Or does this chart fit you better?


What are Fishnets? (lingerie history)

Sophia Loren Fishnet tights

What a way to show off your legs! FISHNETS!  The graphic pattern of this lingerie piece highlights the curves and muscles of the legs and blurs the imperfections – but where did the idea come from?

The origin of fishnet stockings or fishnet pantyhose is hard to pinpoint. The earliest mention of “fishnet clothing” actually goes back to one of Aesop’s Fables in the early 1900s, “The Peasant’s Wise Daughter”. In the story, the king tells a peasant’s daughter that if she can solve his riddle, he will marry her. He challenges her to “Come to me not clothed, not naked, not riding…” and she solves the riddle by wrapping herself in a fisherman’s net. This idea of being covered and not covered has been a major reason in the appeal of fishnet.

E.J. Bellocq photograph circa 1915

Roland Barthes, philospher, writes in his 1973 essay, The Pleasure of the Text, about the eroticism of the interplay of seen and unseen that fishnet embody. Including the grid pattern visual properties of netted clothing.
These eye-catching characteristics follow along the same path which striped pantyhose were great attention-grabbers on Prostitutes.

People say that fishnet stockings began in the early 1900s with the showgirls of the famous Moulin Rouge, but most images of women from the time were adorned in black stockings, not fishnets. The New Orleans Red-light District wore vertically striped pantyhose to catch the eye.

Fishnet stockings became popular with flappers and showgirls in the 1920’s as hemlines rose to just barely below the knee. They were popular for a couple of reasons:  from a distance the fishnet encased legs look as though they were adorned in black tights, but under the bright lights of a stage, pieces of flesh would show through. And fishnet tights were more functional  than standard silk and rayon because they allowed the flappers to dance more freely. Silk and rayon stockings were not ideal for a large range of motion.

Bettie Page

Fishnet continued to be associated with a ‘loose’ type of woman especially as they gained popularity with print-porn and the pin-up girls of the 1950’s.

In the 1960’s, with the rise of the miniskirt, some women took to playing with the amount of leg they showed by wearing  tight weave fishnet tights in various colors.

Subverting mainstream fashion, punks and goths of the 1970’s took control of the fishnet tights and made them more extreme by ripping holes in them. Along with safety-pin earrings, patched denim jackets, and more, female punks found this a great way to give the mainstream idea of proper women’s clothing the finger.

Fishnet tights graduated to any fishnet piece of clothing with Madonna in the 1980’s. This pop singer and fashion icon was often dressed in fishnets, but she didn’t limit herself to just stockings.

By the 1990’s, a number of fashion and knitwear designers were creating fishnet stockings and loose-knit, nearly nude dresses.  Thereafter, fishnet tights and clothing became normalized “fashion”.

Present day fishnet clothing is offered by Alexander Wang, Helmut Lang, Marchesa, Cushnie et Ochs, and more
And as fashion designers often do…they took this provocative piece of clothing material and turned fishnet mainstream.   Offering pieces that range from conservative layering pieces to risqué ripped garments.

What is made out of fishnet in your closet?

In dievca’s? gloves, lingerie, stockings, tights, bodysuits

Sources: dievca, Vice, CR Fashion Book, Foot Traffic, Amy Boone

And if you would like to source a pair of traditional Fishnet stockings or tights – click here!