Traveling with a “foodie” can be a complete challenge.
Every meal analyzed, every type of food must be explored, on a mission to find certain foods or tools to make the local foods. Insistence upon their way for all food choices – even snacks. FOMO – food-wise.
It gets old, but one tends to go with the flow if said one has no real food-driven desires – only insisting that the complaints of an unchosen meal be limited before the said person goes meltdown on the foodie’s a**.
dievca is not the foodie.
she did not insist that they take a 45+ minute tram to Jerónimos Monastery for an egg custard tart. Packed in like a sardine with people yelling a conversation over her head.
No – that was the foodie who insisted that Pastéis de Belém was reputed to have the best tarts in Lisbon – fresh from the oven… which entailed another 1-hour wait in chaos for the treat to arrive.
The egg custard tarts are not one of dievca’s favorites, but the foodie was in HEAVEN!
So much, in fact, a quest was commenced to scour the city for places to buy the tart tins for the egg custards to be made at home.
An Australian Food blog saved the day, giving three locations to buy the tart tins in Lisbon — one shop was relatively nearby. Then the damn foodie was miffed that the price went up to a Euro for each tin when the 4-year-old blog post said 83 cents per tin….eyeroll.
dievca did send the blogger a message, thanking her for the help.
Anyways, back in Belém, after eating the tarts it was found that the monastery was packed with Asian tourists and the line to wait was insane. The crew just wandered the surrounding park, river walk, and hopped a packed bus back to Lisbon. It was faster than the tram and offered the bonus of watching a European street busker hit on an All-American slice of sunshine~
So, that long intro explains why dievca’s eye was caught with this
NYT Article: The Chocolate Cake that Saved My Vacation
dievca wasn’t too interested in the egg custard tarts – but she could have really gone into a “foodie mode” for Chocolate Cake. Plus, she had great empathy for the writer’s experiences on the #28 Tram after her own tram ride.
BTW, dievca took that #28 tram to transverse Lisbon, but she started before 8 am on a Sunday — no one was on it.
Here’s what dievca wants to make:
Sarah Anne Ward for The New York Times. Food stylist: Maggie Ruggiero. Prop stylist: Amy Elise Wilson.
FOR THE CAKE:
- ½ cup/115 grams unsalted butter (1 stick), cut into chunks, plus more for greasing the pan
- ⅓ cup/30 grams unsweetened cocoa powder
- 1 ½ tablespoons cornstarch
- ¼ teaspoon baking powder
- ¼ teaspoon fine sea salt
- 5 ounces/140 grams dark chocolate, coarsely chopped
- ½ cup/100 grams granulated sugar
- 3 large eggs, chilled
FOR THE GANACHE:
- 1 ¾ cups/420 milliliters heavy cream
- 6 ounces/170 grams semisweet or bittersweet chocolate, finely chopped
FOR THE TOPPING:
- 3 tablespoons unsweetened cocoa powder
- Make the cake: Center a rack in the oven, and heat oven to 325 degrees. Butter a 9-inch cake pan, line with parchment paper and butter the paper.
- Sift together the cocoa powder, cornstarch, baking powder and salt in a medium bowl. Whisk to blend.
- Put the 1/2 cup butter in a large heatproof bowl set over a saucepan of simmering water. Scatter dark chocolate on top, and heat, stirring often, until the mixture is smooth and glossy. Remove the bowl from the pan, and stir in the sugar. One by one, energetically stir in the eggs, beating for 1 minute after the last egg is added. The mixture will look like pudding. Stir in the dry ingredients. Scrape the mixture into the cake pan, and give the pan a couple of good raps against the counter to settle the batter.
- Bake for 18 to 20 minutes, or until a tester inserted into the center comes out clean (or with only a tiny streak of chocolate). Transfer to a rack, cool for 5 minutes, then unmold the cake. Peel off the paper, invert the cake and cool to room temperature. Wash and dry the cake pan.
- Make the ganache: Pour 1 1/4 cups cream into a small saucepan; refrigerate the rest. Scald the cream over medium heat, turn off the heat and stir in the semisweet or bittersweet chocolate until fully incorporated. Transfer to a heatproof bowl. Refrigerate the ganache for 10 minutes, whisk it, then refrigerate again for 10 minutes. Repeat chilling and whisking steps until the ganache is thick enough to make tracks when you stir, 50 to 60 minutes.
- Cut two 3-by-16-inch pieces of parchment or foil, and crisscross them in the cake pan. Carefully return the cake to the pan.
- Whip the remaining 1/2 cup cream until it holds medium peaks.
- Using a whisk, gently beat the ganache until it’s soft and spreadable. With a spatula, fold in the whipped cream. Spread over the cake, and refrigerate for 2 hours (or cover and keep for up to 2 days). The cake is best served cool or at room temperature, so take it out of the fridge about 20 minutes before serving.
- To finish, put the cocoa powder in a fine-mesh strainer, and shake it over the top of the cake. Run a table knife along the sides of the pan. Using the parchment or foil handles, carefully lift the cake out of the pan and onto a serving plate. Discard the strips. Cut the cake using a long knife that has been run under hot water and wiped dry between each cut.
Hidden in the trees.
Visited by peacocks, kitties, and tourists.
Offering the City.
The city of Lisbon’s ancient name, Olisipo (Ulyssipo), may be derived from the Phoenician alis ubbo (“delightful little port”) or from the legend that the city’s founder was Odysseus.
Olisipo was used by the Lusitanians, the Visigoths changed the name to Olisipona and the Moors modified it to Lishbuna – moving towards the modern-day Lisbon.
And in the Castelo de São Jorge which stands majestically above Lisbon. The Lady – Olisipona, from whom the City of Lisbon gained its original name, kneels.
Photos: dievca, Castelo de São Jorge Lisbon Portugal 08/2019
Remind dievca that she loves her parents dearly, ok?
she had to lay down the law with her Dad that she’s not in town just to jump and do his bidding. she’s going to sit down and have dinner like a normal human being. If there is a wet ring on the table from condensation on a glass? Well, that will just have to wait until she’s finished eating and chatting with her Mother.
dievca offered her Dad two options:
- Wait patiently until everyone is finished eating and have faith it will be cleaned up.
- Get up with the walker, go and get a towel and wipe the ring.
I understand with age you feel like you lose control and your memory is short…
But, a water ring on a melamine table is not an emergency, nor is buying extra pads for Mom, nor is folding the towels from a load that just finished in the dryer, nor is adjusting the peepee pad so it hangs off the side of the bed, nor is putting your applesauce container in the fridge when we haven’t finished eating, nor is putting Mom to bed just because you want to go to bed.
I only have two hands for removing dishes from the dining table. Some of the dishes will have to stay on the table until I can walk back and get them.
If I haven’t left the house in a car, then I haven’t picked up Mom’s pee pads.
Yes, I got the mail and the newspapers. You’ve asked me four times already. Why don’t you sit on the sofa and read them, so you don’t have to ask me again?
I am really trying to remember that I am going to be the same way in about 40 years.
Let us hope I’ll be the easy-going elderly person holding a glass of wine. ~doubt it~
It started with a lovely seafood lunch, topped off with a chocolate mousse.
The walk up the hill offered a chance for some views:
And some shopping:
Some of which was in a Bordello:
Actually, it was a very stately house that was a single family home (palace) for many years until the family couldn’t afford the upkeep. Part of the house was used as a movie set for two years – a French film for which the set designers created the nudes in the entry way and double stair case. Of course, dievca had to ask if it was a house ill-repute.
And a final walk through a park with ancient trees, Magnolia and other:
And a final beer for the way home:
Photos: dievca, Lisbon Portugal 08/2019
Killing time while waiting for a friend to fly into Lisbon…dievca wandered Oriente.
Photos: dievca Lisbon - Oriente 08/2019
Lisbon is a lot of walking on hills paved with cobblestones.
Gorgeous views, excellent wine, heat, plus a lot of people in August.
Avoiding the trams due to crowds
Age comes into it when you pull a hamstring and your hips/back step in to carry the load. Makes for a really hurting 7th day.
dievca is laying low, stretching and trying to get her muscles to relax before the flight on Sunday… Wish her luck. XO
Is it the tide? Is it a dry dock?
Or is it a big problema?
Photos: dievca, Tagus River Lisbon Portugal 08/2019